Melanoma Operation

By now we knew Geoff had the melanoma removal operation on the 6th and we wanted to be home for his birthday celebration on the 5th, so we motored up the East coast of Phuket to Yacht Haven marina in the North, berthed..tidied up and on the 3rd December headed home, arriving Sunday 4th ready for the party on the 5th and the op on the 6th...quite a change from the life-style and pace we had become accustomed to over the last few months!! But it was good to be home and see everyone...even though the op was successful; it was a bit of a bitch!
We stayed in New Zealand after the operation and enjoyed the summer at our new batch on Waiheke Island. It was not the best summer we have had at home weather wise, but it was fantastic to catch up with family and friends.

Singapore and Malaysia

In mid October 2011, we went home from Singapore for the semis and finals of the Rugby World Cup, and more importantly, Nick and Kate’s wedding on which was on 4 November in Gisborne. What a great day that was. We had left Salanjo at the Republic of Singapore Yacht Club which was on the West side of Singapore not too far from “downtown” which was where Anna wanted to be...for obvious reasons!! The marina was great in many respects. Nice pool, restaurants and reading rooms, bars and gym, but it was adjacent to the West Coast ferry terminal and from before 7 am until well after dark the jet engines of the commercial ferries just roared all day. There was seldom a quiet moment. Ok if you are away as we were, but on returning 10th November we felt it bad, and were keen for Trish Brown to arrive so we could clear customs and immigration and head off up the Straits of Malacca and see Malaysia.

Anna and trish en joying some 5 Star hospitality!

Trish arrived, we provisioned up and late in the afternoon of the 12th November, we dropped lines and headed out for an evening trip up the busy Straits of Singapore. Nothing too dramatic happened. There was little breeze so we motored until a land breeze picked up at dawn and lasted a few hours. We arrived at Port Dickson marina late in the morning of the 14th. We went into town to clear customs and immigration and arrange a taxi for the next day to take us to Malacca. The old port of Malacca has long since silted up so it’s now easier to lay at Port Dickson, and drive the 40 odd miles back to the famous old town of Malacca.

Trish having fish spa!!

 

We loved Malacca and stayed two nights there at a beautiful little hotel. We toured on bikes and went to the museum of the Chinese 1241 World Discovery Fleets. We found the old town charming and very interesting. Well worth visiting.
The next day we left Port Dickson and headed north towards Port Clang. The Raja Muda yacht race was starting the next day so we were lucky to find a spot to tie alongside at the Royal Selangor Yacht Club which was hosting the regatta. We met a few kiwi sailors we knew. We met up with David Ross with his new 40 foot racing machine which I was contemplating joining for the king’s Cup later in Thailand, but for reasons that will come out later, that was not to be!
Port Klang was horrible. There was so much rubbish floating on the river, it was incredible. They said that the rubbish dump had broken its side and all the rubbish fell into the river, but whatever it was, we were not staying any longer than necessary. At first light we left Port Clang for the sail to Pankor Island. We arrived just after sundown and headed for a bunch of lights that looked pretty interesting! We went ashore and found the restaurant to be immediately surrounded by a group of men in uniforms, all smiling but with guns at their sides!! We sis as we were told!! Eventually they allowed us to stay for dinner then provided transport for us back to the dinghy where they stood to ensure our departure. It was an eventful evening at the flash resort on the private island of Pankor Laut!!
The next morning we proceeded over to Pankor Island to join the race boats who had arrived during the night. Not much to say about here. We had a look around and lunch and left for Panang.
We pulled into the Town marina which seems to have been wrecked by the currents running here, and went ashore. Loved the place. Really cute. We met the cruising vessel Sirius with Simon Morris and his crew. We had a good evening out with them. The next day after a further explore, we headed out for Langkawi, 150 miles away. We experienced light winds in the afternoon, but during the night the breeze got up and we had over 20 knots for the last half of the trip with the wind freshening in the channel as we got closer to the island. We spent the first night at the tourist lake called Princess Lake on the south side of the Langkawi group of islands. Next morning after a quick look at the princess Lake,  we entered and motored up Bass Harbour to the Royal Langkawi Yacht Club and a look around down town Lankawi..not too much! It was raining though, so maybe that was a contributing factor to us thinking it was all a bit dreary!
The next day we headed down to the most beautiful beach of Pantai Senang beach with all its bars and restaurants. Here we swam and dinned and stayed the night. Later the next day after a quick look to confirm there was no room for us at Rebak Marina, we headed around to the marina in Telaga Harbour where our mate Greg Sutherland had organised us a berth.
We enjoyed Langkawi. Rented a car and had a good look around..the beaches, the resorts and an evening trip back to Rebak marina for a night with many of our Indonesian Rally friends who were moored there.
Then on the 26th November, we said “good-bye” to Trica and Anna and I cleared Customs and Immigration and headed off around the corner and a few miles north to the wonderful Malaysian Island, of Butang. We had a lovely barbeque fish dinner on the beach, and an interesting evening wandering the path of stalls observing the simplicity of it all, and noting the large numbers of tourists and speciality stalls and dive stalls. Next morning the 30th November, Anna and I sailed the, 125 miles through to Phuket, early evening arriving at Ao Yon in time for a meal at a local beach-side reataurant. Next day we motored over to Ao Chalong and cleared Customs and Immigration at the one-stop-shop at the end of the wharf. Pretty painless!

At a Cruisers' party, Langkawie

Geoff at dinner on the beach, Butang

Anna sailing to Phukett

Goodbye Indonesia

So that ends the Indonesian Rally. Looking back... it was a wonderful experience. Two thousand five hundred miles we sailed from Darwin to Singapore over a period of three months. We loved it. The people were amazing. They are so friendly, and the smiles. Always smiling, yet they had nothing. I mean nothing! The weather was warm without being oppressive, but the winds were disappointing for a sailing vessel. We motor sailed most of the way with only a few good sailing days, which we made the most of. We saw no rain for almost two months except one day at Lombok when we were ashore with all our hatches open, it poured for about an hour! All our bedding, mattresses and everything was soaked! No matter, within three hours next day all was dry and warm again!

Contrary to common rumour, the authorities were not a problem. This may have well been because we were with the rally, but everywhere we were made very welcome, almost embarrassingly so. They are desperate for tourists. The tourist dollar is the only form of income most villages have.

Some images of Indonesia.... 

Every night all along the coast at about5.30 hundreds of these fishing vessels head out to fish for the night. They use very strong lights and return about 0730 to get their catch to the morning markets. No question about the freshness!

A typical coastal village

The amazing thing about Indonesia, is the people. They are hard working, honest and very welcoming. They have nothing, but their smiles say it all....they are a beautiful people.

I like this life!!

A typical coastal cargo boat.

The sun goes down on another chapter of our voyage.

Kalimantan and the Orang-utans

Friday 23^rd September 2011 dawned bright and sunny...as usual around here! After a swim and a trip ashore to get all the fresh provisions, a quick preparation of the ship for sea, we left the lovely anchorage at Lovina Beach, and the rest of the Rally participants and headed off across the Java Sea to Southern Borneo for Kalimantan.

We are heading for Kumai where we are hoping to organise a boat to take us up the river to the home of the Dayak tribes who were until quite recently, head-hunters! The area is also sanctuary to the last of the planets remaining orang-utans.

We departed Bali at 1500 for the 500 mile trip. The first night was quite rough and we have to pass through the narrow channel east of Madura Island. Quite a bit of current and tugs with very large barges being towed at a distance behind made navigation a bit tricky! The next day was again fine and we sailed when we could and motor-sailed the rest of the time. We made pretty good progress arriving at the mouth of the Kumai River about 1400 on Sunday afternoon the 25^th September.

Its not too bad!!

Anna sets up her night shift arm chair. pretty good really.

Going up the river was quite an experience. Very shallow in places and very tidal. Beautiful thick bush all up the right hand side and a few villages on the left. We rounded the last corner and found to our surprise a port of some size..with maybe 25 ships of various sizes all either alongside or moored in the stream. But what blew us away was what we thought were all the high rise white buildings along the shore-line. They were white and it was not until we got closer that we realised there were no windows in them!! Then we heard it..the tremendously loud sound of birds. Man..it was amazing. We later found out that these buildings house all these birds..thousands of them who make bird’s nests which are a prized for the birds’ nest soup delicacy here in Asia. We were told its US$100 a kilogramme. So it is a major export industry.

We anchored in the stream. Took us a couple of shots as the tidal flow was very swift and the first time we ended up alongside another vessel! Then we went ashore to organise our river trip and have a look around. Typical Indonesian town. Very friendly people, but health and standards a bit below the mark!! Had a dinner then retired to Salanjo to get ready for the early departure for the trip to see the orang-utans.

We left about 0830 in our own little river boat, Anna, Jim and Geoff. We travelled up the river for 3 hours seeing the famous and scarce proboscis monkeys on the trees together with many beautiful birds and plenty of the gibbons and the common macaques monkey sharing the same branches. Nice lunch aboard then a visit to the eco hotel where we decided to stay the night rather than on a mattress on the deck of the river boat. Then on up to the reserve for the orang-utans. It was very interesting. Saw some females that had been in and around the park for some years as they had names and seemed to know the rangers. These creatures are becoming extinct as a result of both poaching and the destruction of the virgin forest by development and lumber activities.  The park is open so the orang-utans are free to come and go. It was on the second day in a different part of the park that the earth seemed to stand still. The forest went very quiet. A huge dark brown hulk swung effortlessly through the tops of the surrounding trees. Yes, it was the alpha male; and what a sight he made. It truly made the hair on the back of your neck stand for he was so big and majestic as he swung down to get some bananas from the ranger’s basket. Indeed he took the whole lot, basket and all!

James and Anna enjoying the ambiance of the forest. the monkeys and, of course, the urang-utans.

Lombok, the Gilis and Bali

                                 

    After the dragons Louise, Anna and I cruised the islands for a few days then headed off across the north of Sumbawa to Lombok. Sumbawa itself is pretty large and it took three days of sailing in the day and pulling into a bay, or harbour at night to get across the top of this island to Lombok.

Louise checking the minimum size requirements...there are none!

We purchased a few fish and lobsters from the locals as we cruised.

      We first went out to Gili Trawangan on the north-west corner of Lombok where Lou’s friends we had met in Queenstown, Bas and Georgie were caretaking/managing A J Hackett’s resort property. Man, we had a good time there with them. We lost Lou at Trawagan from where she was returning to the cold winter of Queenstown and her hotel business at Queenstown House, and we returned to the official anchorage of sail Indonesia, Medina Beach on the North West corner of Lombok. A pretty and sheltered spot in a cove in the fringing reef. We had a good time there.

It was here that our mates Chrissy Asher and Susie Williams were meeting us so Anna took a car down to Senggigi to meet them and stayed with them a couple of nights at the Senggigi Sheraton. My sister Sally and Chris also joined us here. We all went on a bus trip around the main features of Lombok and visited the main city of Mataram returning for a night at the local resort where we had the place to ourselves. It feels a bit eerie to have this beautifully lit pool and dining facility and 18 staff and just the 6 of us. Easy to believe it was our own private mansion! But back to the boat and next day off to Gili Air then on to Gili Trawangan...to meet up again with Georgie and Bas!

More drinks on Salanjo, then another night ashore.my health could not take too much more of their hospitality!!
Bas and Georgie and their mates Debs and Wild Man took us on the resort’s vessel to the luxious resort of Tugu on the northern end of Lombok. What a great day!!Great place..great hosts..great fun!

Bas and Georgie's Resort vessel.

Chris and sally with us for lunch on Bali half way to Ubud overlooking the famous lake in the crater of the volcanoe.

The Lombok  / Bali team.

All on our sides at Gili Trawagan with Bas and Georgie

                                 










We have to keep moving though, so next morning, off to the Gilis at the south west end of Lombok for a little explore. They were really nice islands, not too much tourism yet. We walked to a little lodge built by a Swedish couple, visited their fairly basic bungalows and had coke with the local family who run it when in season. The season is fairly short around here...two months, July and August. This will grow as the place becomes more popular. The next day we had a good breeze for a decent sail from the south west corner of Lombok right across the top of Bali Island to Lovina Beach on the north coast of Bali. This is a really nice little spot. Here were some nice little restaurants; we were able to watch some RWC rugby...especially the Ireland versus Australia pool game! We took a car to some waterfalls at Gip Gip then a nice lunch at Singaraja. The next day we went west for some diving and another great lunch, then it was time to say good bye to Susie and Chrissy who were heading back to Legian beach to finish some shopping, pack and fly home. We had a great time for the 10 days they were here but time keeps moving on! So the four of us, that’s Sally and Chris, Anna and I took another car and headed for Mt Batur, the temple there and a nice lunch overlooking the mountain lake formed by the volcano. Then we went on to Ubud. This is said to be the cultural centre of Bali. We found it a bit touristy, but there were places that were just magic...and we found some of these too! We really loved it. The next morning after Sally and Anna had had a bit more browsing in the shops we headed off to Denpasar to drop Sally and Chris off at the airport. Their time had come and gone..and Anna and I found ourselves alone again..as the song says..! We had rented the same driver and car for three days and had two more to go so we had a look at the beaches you read about in Bali..Kuta, Legian and Seminyak. We like the last two and Anna spent the afternoon there browsing the shops while I had another massage. It’s all just one long beach really..but they are different in that the clientele is different at each, and hence the type of shops and hotels etc change as you progress up the beach. We liked Legian and the shops at Seminyak! For the evening we went over to Sanur..and that was pretty special. We enjoyed walking around there and along the boardwalk in the morning. A lovely spot!

Driving back north we visited a number of little villages with jewellery and art for sale. We found the villages in the country so appealing we have promised ourselves a month or so here in Bali one day!

Back in Lovina Beach, we picked up Jim Dance again as our third crew member and headed off for the 400 mile sail to Kalimantan and the orang-utans.

Dragons at Komodo Island and Rinca



These dragons have two penises...so its little wonder he looks a bit stuffed!!    Louise has that look in her eye as she watches in admiration...I think..or is it horror! 

These dragons can run. At one point one felt he was surrounded by us and just took off staright at one of the group. I really did think she was going to be a victim!!  but at the last minute one of the rangers lunged at the beast with a forked stick and managed to pin its head to the ground for a few split seconds while another ranger grabbed the lady who seemed to be stguck to the ground with pure fear!!

I dont think James knows the dragon is actually moving towards him. Anna is taking a bit long to take this photo for my liking!!

Komodo, Rinca and the Dragons

So now we had a few days to catch up and motored along the coast from Maumere to Sea World Resort where we spent a few days including the night of 17 August – Indonesian Independence day. Had a fine culture show and bar-b-q feast on the beach to celebrate.

On our own again, Anna and I headed off north then west along the north coast of Flores, stopping at a few really nice little bays along the coast of Flores until we reached Riung about half way along the north coast. It was an interesting spot. They had built a jetty for our use so we could exit and enter our dinghies with ease and had people there to assist with jerry cans..the only way to get diesel around here. 1,000 litres via 20 litre jerry cans!! Again we had a very warm welcome and a wonderful show of cultural dancing followed by a feast all put on for us by the Regent of the area. We spent 3 days there including a day trip in a bus to a remote village where the local school entertained us with beautiful dancing, and a day trip to a snorkelling island for outings.

On 26th August we left for Labuan Bajo the major port on the western end of Flores. This is an in interesting spot. With the large number of vessels, which meet the demand of the tourist trade for the diving and the Komodo dragons, it had plenty of action. The diving was superb...we went with a group of the sailors and had two dives with a dive company. It was an excellent day. The tourists here are plentiful and there are therefore the associated restaurants and hotels etc  and we found the place the most developed we had struck since leaving Darwin...Anna loved the more developed, aspects of this port, but the rubbish along the streets and the unfinished road sides made us despair! Why can they not understand that the plastic rubbish they continually discard along the streets ends up on the beaches and in the ocean! My thinking after I see a few large hotel developments is that in 5 years time I probably wouldn’t recognise the place!

This is where we picked up Lou Kiely who just happened to be at the Gili Islands off Lombok so she grabbed a plane and flew out to join us for the cruise through Rinca and the Komodo Islands (including the Komodo Dragons) and the sail from Labuan Bajo to Lombok and the Gili Islands.

The dragons were pretty amazing...up to 3 or 4 metres long and pretty quick if they want to get you! The thing the girls found interesting was the fact that the male dragon has two penises! Yes, that’s two penises! So when one gives up he shifts on to the second one so she gets her full money’s worth!! They are just huge monitor lizards, but nevertheless they were pretty impressive. The way they bring down a large water buffalo and the way the males fight each other.